In the tea world one often hears “Tea is from the Camellia sinensis plant. If it is not Camellia sinensis it is not true tea and is an herbal tisane instead.” One reads this in books about tea and hears it from reputable tea shops everwhere. It is considered the most basic fact about tea.
Time and time again you come across this declaration that true tea is only made from the leaf of Camellia sinensis, either from the small-leaf Camellia sinensis sinensis varietal or the large-leaf Camellia sinensis assamica varietal. No other varietal or species of Camellia is used to make tea.
But is that really true?
No, strictly speaking this is not quite true, but in most cases it might as well be. Almost all tea in the world tea market is from either Camellia sinensis or Camellia sinensis assamica. This isn’t obvious when one sees the wide variation in bushes grown in tea estates around the world. These two varietals have been split into numerous cultivars by creative farmers such that now there are purple leaf cultivars, hardy tie guan yin cultivars, silky smooth jin xuan cutivars, and so many more. But these do not count as different species of tea plant, nor even new varietals.
There are however many other species of Camellia than just Camellia sinensis and a good number of these are made into specialized teas. You may not find them on supermarket shelves but chances are that a good tea vendor with a wide selection of teas will have at least one or two.
Other Species of Camellia
One of the most common of these alternate tea plant species is Camellia taliensis. This species is native to Southwest China and the surrounding region and is sometimes mistaken for the Camellia sinensis assamica also native to this area. However when processed into a tea the flavors are subtly different, sometimes with a savory or woody notes. One often sees it processed as a silver needle white tea or a golden needle black tea, and the difference there is more apparent. Camellia taliensis leaf buds are covered in much finer and dense hair, almost fur like in nature. Occasionally Camellia taliensis leaf will find its way into a cake of pu-erh tea, or is processed as a Yunnan green tea.
Another tea plant species that is paradoxically more common and less common is Camellia formosensis, native to Taiwan (formerly known as Formosa, hence the name). Tea made directly from Camellia formosensis is rare but can be found with some searching on the specialized Taiwanese tea market. It is rich in flavor but is somewhat less subtle and refined than the cultivars used for the impressive high mountain oolongs of Taiwan. Although not in high demand in the general market, it is sought after by some Taiwanese tea enthusiasts.
However, Camellia formosensis has been used by Taiwan’s extensive tea research organizations to create hybrid plants mixed with Camellia sinensis varietals. Each of these experimental hybird cultivars is given a number and popular name, the most successful of which is a hybrid of Camellia formosensis and Camellia sinensis assamica called Ruby 18. This hybrid has become a great commercial success in the last decade and is now grown extensively, in particular around Sun Moon Lake, now famous for the black teas made with Ruby 18. This tea is incredibly aromatic with the scents of sweet exotic woods and a savory rich taste both subtle and satisfying.
Despite the name, Camellia japonica is not native to Japan alone, but can also be found in China, Korea, and Taiwan. It’s almost exclusively grown as an ornamental plant with its unusually colorful and varied Camellia flowers. However its leaves are occasionally used to make tea. The results are very similar to Camellia sinensis assamica, with durable leaf and a robust scent. Tea made with Camellia japonica is currently very difficult to find on the world market.
There are other Camellia species that can be made into tea, but are so rare as to not warrant a mention here. However it is certainly clear that the answer to “what plant is used to make tea?” is not as simple nor as absolute as is usually claimed. Is true tea only Camellia sinensis? Well, usually, but certainly not always!
Leave a comment